14 March 2009
Session 273 - Coolant system - header tank
Last month I decided that I was not too happy with the standard ford fiesta header tank. It would have done the job but it was a little bulky and the clearance between the tank and bonnet was literally 1mm! But also the bottom hose connector on the tank was not ideally positioned. Also I would have to put some tees in the system to join the hoses especially as I have no heater matrix. So I contacted Pro alloy who I had used before to fabricate my solid pipes. Pro alloy are considered as one of the best in their field. So I set about producing a drawing to detailing maximum measurements I had to play with along with the angle of the scuttle to which I needed to mount the tank to ensure water is level in the tank. Also detailing the number of pipes, positions, angles etc. I also specified black powder coat finish. I even specified that I wanted a yellow cap to match the car!
When I recieved the tank I was very impressed with the welding. Even the bending was radiused. They exceeded my expectation by even producing mounting plates to use the other side of the scuttle. These plates cam complete with welded in captive nuts. Making the mounting simple and very secure. The tank has the same capacity as the ford item but made out of alloy rather than plastic means externally it is smaller and also the shape is regular rectangle.
Below is a photograph showing the tank mounted in its prime position.
Photo below showing, if you can tell, more clearance. I have actually installed the header tank higher than I could have with the ford item.The higher the header tank is installed the better. Its important that header tank be the highest point of the system.
15 March 2009
Session 274 - Coolant system - continues..
Continued today with coolant system. I obtain the relevant samco hoses to complete the system.
The bottom of the tank is connected to the bottom hose that connects to the radiator. Bottom side of the tank connects to the front of the inlet manifold. The smaller hose at the top is the radiator overflow.
I got some Halfords Advance anti-freeze and summer coolant which is red in colour. This is ethlene-glcol based with no added phosphates or methonal which is important for all allimunium engine as these can corrode. It is OAT (Organic Acid Technology). I also got some battery topup water which is pure de-ionised in which to mix. I mixed 4.5 Litres of each to make up 9 Litres. I filled the system. I found this volume was sufficient to fill then header tank up to the half-way mark. I expect this level will drop a bit once the system is ran and any trapped air and voids are filled. I did turn the engine over on the starter motor and pumped some of the pipes. Goods news is that my garage floor remained dry.
I installed the centre driving mirror, utilising one of the fixing bolts of the aeroscreen to minimise holes. Held down by three bolts which go through the aeroscreen and the skuttle to ensure as shake free as possible!
I recieved some vinyl stickers the other day which are going to be installed to the side of the car. More on that later.
Now that I am nearing the completion of the Westfield and neading to replace my daily drive I have decided its time to go back to beamer ownership. Those of you that have been following my progress will know that I sold my last beamer almost 4 years ago. I really miss it. So I decided that I would not only get another beamer but a very similiar specification, another 330. This time a 330 SE rather than a sport. However the engine power is up by some 23BHP to 254BHP and it does 34mpg, no its not a diesel.
More toys on this one as well. Nice colour but it requires a lot of cleaning.
21 March 2009
Session 275 - Fast Idle control valve/ ECU relay thoughts..
Was not going to bother fitting the idle control valve as they are not strictly necessary. These valves are primarily used to provide a faster idle speed when the engine is cold, that's an uncessary luxury. However my plenum chamber was pre-drilled with the holes for one. I therefore have had to fit the valve to block the holes. The idle valve I have is used so I cleaned up and sprayed gloss black to match the chamber.
Been thinking about the wiring of the ECU and the necessary relays to control various functions.
I have come up with three relays. Refer to diagram below:
R1. Injector relay
Injector relay providing live to injectors from igntion. Megasquirt providing ground to injectors.
R2. Coil relay
Switches on coil packs from ignition. EDIS providing ground to coil packs to fire spark plugs. Note live from the relay will also be wired into supressor capicitors.
R3. Main relay
Main relay switching on Megasquirt ECU and EDIS ignition module from ignition.
R4. Fuel pump relay
Allows megasquirt ECU to switch on fuel pump and lambda sensor. Note megasquirt provides ground, ignition provides live.
Notes:
1. Green IGN is the ignition wire that becomes live when the igntion switch is turned to that position.
2. Purple live is a permanent live. I may run additional cables direct to battery especially for the Main relay.
Note:
Standard automotive relay show the coil as Pin 85 and 86. Normally open switch across pins 87 and 30. A small current typically 20mA across 85,86 enables a much larger current of typically 20A across 87,30. These are four pin relays. You can get a five pin relay which could be twin switch, these have two pin 87s. A five pin relay with a pin designated as 87a is a switch over relay, this is a normally open and normally closed switch, 87 being normally open and 87a normally closed.
29 March 2009
Session 276 - Additional fuse and relay box
The standard westfield engine loom for the Rover V8 which I used has two fuses installed inline. I don't like this approach, I'd rather have all fuses in a box. Problem is that the two fuse boxes installed in the car are full. So I have installed another. Spent about 1hr routing 4 cables for the fuses under the skuttle in the small gap between the front bulkhead cross member and the bell housing. Also installed a proper relay box which will hold the three relays that I intend to use. Skuttle starting to look a bit full!
Photo showing relay box. Look at the middle of the photo. The mass of wires is from the ECU which I still need to install. The smaller box towards the back of the photo is the additional fuse box I have installed.
This is what it looks like with the plenum chamber and air filter put back on. I hope I do not have to change fuses or relays often.
Go to April 2009