3 June 2008
Session 259 - Fuelling continued
Spent an hour this evening doing some little bits and pieces in the garage tonight. Here's a photo of my nice billet ali fuel filter. This is servicable the blue end is a cap that can be removed to change the element. This is a high pressure filter suitable for use post fuel pump. I have changed the tails from straight push on hose ends to 90 degree items to allow positioning on the rear bulkhead without comprimising the hose.
I have connected the fuel supply hose to the fuel rail. The other hose you can see in the photo is the return hose. You will notice that I have covered in heat reflective sleeving.
Next little job is to mount the fuel regulator in a suitable position, you can see the FSE regulator in the photo below. This is an after market item and will allow me to adjust the fuel pressure. Standard 4.6 pressure is around 35PSI. Apparently an uprated 4.6 engine like mine should be dialled in at around 42PSI. The main thing is that it is adjustable. I also have a pressure gauge that connects to the regulator. The hose on the side of the regulator is the return from the fuel rail. The hose in the centre is connected to the fuel return hose that was connect to the fuel rail. The small union on the top of the regulator is for vacuum and will be connected to the plenum chamber or more exactly the plenum base.
I got hold of the nessary piping and conical air filter a while ago but decided that I should install so that I can see the viable options for mounting the fuel regulator. No I could not get it in blue or yellow!
However I am not 100% sure about the air filter position as it sits under the bonnet vent which looks like a good option for air induction but what happens when it rains! Which is the same for other configurations I have seen actually. I will take some advice about this.
All fuel hose I have used for the high pressure side is rated at 12Bar and has the necessary markings for compliance and where possible I have ensured that it is easy to read.
4 June 2008
Session 260 - Fuel filter installation
Now this was tight and tricky. See photos below and can you imagine how I managed to drill and pop rivet the clips into place.
Installed on rear bulk head behind the upper wishbone. Normally installed behind the lower wishbone but with my large fuel pump and hose arrangement it would move the hose to close to the lower wishbone.
Here's a contortionist camera view of the same.
5 June 2008
Session 261 - Fuel pressuure regulator
Tonight's little job was installation of the fuel pressure regulator. Decided to mount on the front chassis rail on the scuttle just underneath the air filter duct from the plenum chamber. Good position at the rear and almost central to fuel rail. Away from immediate sources of heat.
Bent the bracket to suit the install location and pop riveted to the chassis rail. Hose in the middle at the rear is the fuel return line. Hose to the right is the fuel return from the pressure rail. I've yet to connect the vacuum hose. The shiny thing on the left is the pressure gauge. the fuel system is now complete!
7 June 2008
Session 262 - Handbrake surround
Another little job out the way, installed the chrome handbrake surround and leather gaitor. I had to bend the surround to match the profile of the rear transmission tunnel. I was half expecting the chrome to crack but thankfully it did not.
10 June 2008
Session 263 - Inlet Air Temperature sender
I ordered an IAT which appear today. This is to be installed in the plenum chamber fairly near to the inlet.
I was very careful drilling out the hole in the carbon fibre chamber. Drilled a pilot hole and then used a step drill. Only problem being the step drill is metric and the sender is imperial. So I chose the closest size which was 16mm and then using wet and dry opened up the fraction of a millimetre required.
So close is the size of the hole to the sender that I actually do have to screw it into place.
14 June 2008
Session 264 - Coil packs bracket
I do not believe I spent 5 hours doing this today! Basically The Ford EDIS coil packs of which there are two need to be mounted on the rear of the engine. I was thinking of mounting on the scuttle but space is starting to get restricted here and also the HT leads would not reach the front of the engine, that's the real reason. It is better mounting the packs to the rear of the engine keeps them dry and also reduces movement of the HT leads.
I must spent 1.5 hours taking measurements and making a cardboard template. The rest of the time was spent drilling, jig-sawing, filing, etc.
See photo below. Two coil packs. Each coil pack has 4 towers to which the HT leads are plugged into. Coil packs replace the old fashtioned coil, years ago you had one coil to provide the HT current to all sparks plugs. Coil packs effectively have two coil packs, the spark plugs are paired, this is known as wasted spark, further details below.
Photo below showing how the coil packs will be bolted down to the bracket.
So how are these coil packs going to be wired in? Well! Refer to the picture above, you have two coil packs like I said above each coil pack has two coils. Each coil has two towers. So how does this work you ask? One coil will serve two spark plugs which are 360 degrees apart in timing, so that while one is on the compression cycle the other is on the exhaust cycle, both plugs spark simultaneously but only the one on the compression cycle will combust. Also more electrical current makes it to the cylinder under the compression cycle due to electrical conductance theory. This system is known as wasted spark for obvious reasons.
The Rover V8 firing order is 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2 (yes I know it off by heart now!). Translating this to relative timing degrees gives:
1=0, 8=90, 4=180, 3=270, 6=360, 5=450, 7=540, 2=630 degrees.
So complimentary cylinders which are 360 degrees apart are:
1 & 6, 8 & 5, 4 & 7, 3 & 2
Holding the coil packs so the connection is on th bottom, the coils run from top to bottom, Coil B is on the left and Coil A in on the right. The second coil pack we will refer to these are Coil C and D. Coil D on the left and C on the right. The firing order of these coils will be A,B,C,D, note a complete 720 degree cycle will be A,B,C,D,A,B,C,D
So connect 1&6 to Coil A, 8&5 to Coil B, 4&7 to coil C and 3&2 to Coil D and this will give you:
Cylinder 1 on compression cycle, Cylinder 6 on exhaust cycle Coil A generates current to both but only 1 fires.
Cylinder 8 on compression cycle, Cylinder 5 on exhaust cycle Coil B generates current to both but only 8 fires.
Cylinder 4 on compression cycle, Cylinder 7 on exhaust cycle Coil C generates current to both but only 4 fires.
Cylinder 3 on compression cycle, Cylinder 2 on exhaust cycle Coil D generates current to both but only 3 fires.
Cylinder 6 on compression cycle, Cylinder 1 on exhaust cycle Coil A generates current to both but only 6 fires
Cylinder 5 on compression cycle, Cylinder 8 on exhaust cycle Coil B generates current to both but only 5 fires.
Cylinder 7 on compression cycle, Cylinder 4 on exhaust cycle Coil C generates current to both but only 7 fires.
Cylinder 2 on compression cycle, Cylinder 3 on exhaust cycle Coil D generates current to both but only 2 fires.
Why do it like this? Well less coils, simplification of wring and ECU of course. It is a widely used system and works well.
There are 6 low current wires from the coil packs, 2 of these are ground. The remaining 4 wires are connected to the ECU. I am using an EDIS-8 module to drive my ignition. So Coil A is connected to Pin 8 of the EDIS-8, Coil B to 9, Coil C to 11 and Coil D to 12 as indicated below:
As you know I have installed a trigger wheel on my crank with a VR sensor to read the missing tooth so that the EDIS8 system can determine where in the cycle the engine is and it then provides the ignition timing. The idea being that EDIS8 can drive the ignition timing without an ECU but this will just run the engine at a default 10BTDC* with no mechanism for timing advance. EDIS provides a square wave PIP signal to the ECU. The ECU using the PIP signal and other variables such as throttle position, coolant temperature, Manifold vacuum pressure can then determine the amount of ignition advance. This advance is communicated back to the EDIS module as a SAW signal, another square wave. EDIS then advances the timing based on the SAW signal. See diagram below:
Photos showing the bracket bolts in place onto the left and right heads .
Right has engine hoist bracket also.
You can see why it took so long now, everything has to be pretty much spot on. I did have fun doing this. Always takes the longest to produce the initial one, but only need one!
17 June 2008
Session 265 - coil packs continued
Now that I have found some allen head bolts for the coil packs! Have installed on the bracket. Installed HT leads in accordance with my description above. Everything labelled up.
Photo below showing coil packs with HT leads installed.
HT leads pushed onto the spark plugs, labels attached to the leads. Looking damn close to firing up!
20 June 2008
Session 266 - Inlet Air temperature sender
I have been having trouble sourcing some thin 3/8" BSP nuts to locate my Inlet air temperature sensor on to the plenum chamber. WSCC forum to the rescue, A chap by the handle of Westford offered to get some made from scratch for me! I received these today so installed my sensor tonight.
I have also bought a new camera, you might notice. Here's a picture of the sensor inside the chamber.
As you can see it's positioned near the inlet air flow. Here's a picture of the sensor from the outside.
Located the Ford EDIS-8 ignition module on the scuttle along with the VIN plate at last.
