6 February 2007
I picked up my sump this evening. It has been powdered coated with added polyester. The guy I gave it to even cleaned it in a hot tank so that it was spotless inside as well. See photos below demonstrating the detail.
Underside of the sump showing gleaming powder coating that will resist oil, corrosion and stop chips. Added polyester, very strong and durable.
This is a shallow sump to give extra ground clearance, the standard sump has a lump on the back to hold the required volume of oil and is actually shallower at the front than this one.
The inside of the sump, see how clean it is! Here you can see where the oil pickup/strainer lives, the big circle in the middle. This has a compartment made with baffles and trap doors. Baffles and trap doors allow oil into the compartment but under heavy acceleration, braking and cornering resists oil surge and the possibility of the oil pickup taking up air which would be a very bad thing!
A close up showing one of the trap doors as mentioned above. Design and engineering at its best.
9 February 2007
Session 137 - Timing cover refurbishment continues..
Amazing how much time you can put into refurbishing. I spent the first hour or so of today wandering around DIY stores with my vernier gauge to find two items of the correct diameter in which to remove and then install the timing cover crank front oil seal. I required 53mm to remove from the back and 63mm to insert through the front. I found some items at the third store. Some plumbing connectors were 52mm, as close as I could get. Some end caps for a banister rail was 63mm.
I tried removing the seal and the 52mm pipe connector did not work. Why, well it appears that the seal is in a recess, hence 63mm opening at front and 53mm at the back. All the pipe ended up doing was pushing the rubber part of the seal and the inner metal part remained where it was! It did however break the inner metal spring in the seal. I the end I got a flat bladed screw driver and wrapped in tape to protect the timing cover. I then proceeded very carefully to tap out the seal a little at a time. Took me about 20 minutes but managed to do it with no damaged to the timing cover. The seal was a mess but this is to be throwed away anyway.
Next was the job of inserting the replace oil seal. I have one of these in my gasket kit I bought a while ago. I greased with high load lithium grease EP2. This is high temperature and has very good wash out resistance. Rover say you must use Shell Retinax LX2 grease but could not got hold of any and checking the specification of the two seems to be pretty much the same anyway. Pressing in the seal was not as difficult as removal but you have to go steady and ease in level. I pressed in using the chuck of my pillar drill and bared down onto the 63mm banister rail cap. Pressed a little at a time and check it was going in straight several times. 10 minutes and the operation was done.
Now that the oil seal is in I proceeded to oil up the oil gear housing and oil gears and inserted. Oil the gear plate and screwed down. The oil pump seems to work when turning by hand and made no metallic noises and you can hear it gurgle as well! I have not torque the oil gear plate down as the screws have to be loctite 222 in place and also the torque is 3ft/lbs and I need to get something to measure such a low torque.
Took my existing timing cover off the engine and took apart to swap over some of the bits onto my new timing cover. The replacement timing cover I have is an intermediate one which is of older design but as discussed previously much needed so my alternator fits correctly. This timing cover is second hand whereas my existing one was brand new. Hence why I am going to the length of refurbishing this timing cover.
Removed water pump from my existing timing cover to swap over as it is compatible. Cleaned off the gasket from the front of the engine and water pump. This alone took another hour, what a tedious job.
Here's a picture of the much talked about oil pump gears. These are like gold dust and usually if these are worn beyond tolerances means replacing the completing timing cover! I of course managed to buy some of Ebay. I do know have a new set from my surplus timing cover. I also have the original used set from my interim timing cover and although a little scoured are actually within the manufacturers tolerances so I shall keep just in case.
If you look carefully you will see I have marked the gears with a pencil, this is important as you must keep the gears aligned. To be honest how this works is like witchcraft to me!
Here's a picture of my tools used to extract and install the front oil seal!
Here's a picture of the timing cover just pushed into place on the front of the engine, looks a little different to the new model I had installed originally.
The blanking caps I transferred from the newer timing cover. This is used by Rover to plumb in an oil cooler. I will use an oil cooler but will use a sandwich plate where the oil filter usually goes, this has to be done for a Westfield as there is not enough room to install an oil filter so it has to be a remote oil filter at the top of the engine bay.
Incidentally if you look at the top right of the picture you will see my engine hoist hooks I bought which are made out of aluminum rather than steel, well they look nice.
Once the water pump is installed on the timing cover I can then attach the alternator adjustor bracket and it will line up with the alternator this time (Ok, I did quickly check it!)
Tip, click on this picture to show a higher resolution version.
13 February 2007
Session 138 - Fitted engine hoist brackets
Engine hoist brackets as mentioned previously were trial fitted only. Decided they were in a good position so torqued up to to 30 ft/lbs.
Also offered up the sump to the under belly of the engine! Took some measurements to check would fit and also that the oil pickup would fit correctly. Calculated that the oil pick up would be about 10mm from the bottom of the sump which sounds reasonable. I was quite surprised how close the lobes of the crank would be to the horizontal baffle and oil scavenge lip that runs across the sump but I guess closer is better. However I am going to calculate the clearance as some later point.
I also figured that here were more reasons to go for the interim timing cover than I thought. The later timing cover blocks up the oil passageway on the front of the engine to divert the oil path to an inlet on the bottom of the cover rather than on the bottom of the block. This means that a different oil pickup is used and this pickup would be incompatible with this sump. Also I believe the later timing cover having three not two studs calls for a different sump anyway. This is like the domino effect!
16 February 2007
Hardly worth mentioning but a few useful lessons were learnt here which you may benefit from. When I started to make a dash template which obviously has a hole for the steering column it was obvious that the steering column was some 10cm or so too far to the left when viewed from the driver's position. My mistake was to assume that when fitting the steering column that the steering wheel should be spot on parallel to the dash. Looking at the upper mounting bracket also furthered my believe that this was the right thing to do and also the construction manual did not mention this.
Now the steering column is installed off parallel (about 5 degrees and I can see it is!) so that the steering wheel points slightly to the outside of the vehicle. Making some enquiries, there is a reason, the reason being in the event of a front end collision that steering wheel will displace away from the driver! I was aware of this practice but thought it was catered for with the lower steering column in the engine bay, as this has a universal joint and the lower column is at a different angle to the upper and this would provide the required safety design, it would appear not.
So the lesson is do not torque up the upper steering column until you have a dash or template to ensure that column is in the right place.
I also had quite a bit of trouble trying to torque up the lower upper steering column mounting bolts to the chassis just could not achieve the required torque but I knew they were tight. I had deferred this from ages ago. So tonight I took the opportunity to investigate, and this is hard as it is a very confined space. I took the bolts. The problem was then obvious! The bolts are M8 but the washers looked like M10s! Strange as these were supplied by Westfield. The bracket on the steering column has open ended bolts holes to provide maximum adjustment, it would seem it has sprayed out a bit but more also the M10 washers were quite mangled. The remedy was to bend sprayed out steering column mount! I can see why M10 washers were supplied as M8s would probably just pull though. So my remedy was to use two sets of washers, yep, both the M8s and M10s. The M10s goes on the bolt first so to make contact with the bracket and then the M8s to make contact with the M8 bolt. Now torquing up presented no problem.
So lesson here is that if you have trouble reaching the torque then there's a fundamental problem with the fastening method employed. Another potential problem spotted by the torque wrench.
17 February 2007
Session 140 - Distributor blanking plate
As you know I have the intermediate timing cover that has a hole in the top for a distributor. Going completely electronic ignition I do not require the hole! So today I went about designing a plug based on an original distributor. Had fun re-learning autocad, been a couple of decades since I last used autocad I am sure.
This is what I came up with:
I know a man who has access to the tools to produce this, i.e. CNC, milling and lathes. Just all I need to do know is send the design off and then I can get a nice shiny bit back.
18 February 2007
Session 141 - Timing cover bolts
Getting closer to actually installing my timing cover thinking about the bolts. I have decided that wherever possible I am going to be using cap head bolts or allen bolts as some call them. Why, because they look good, no other reason. As this timing cover is deeper than the non-dizzy version I am going to have to calculate the required bolt lengths to fix to the block. Now if I bough the standard hex bolts then I would not need to worry about calculating the length but I don't want hex bolts do I!
Having a look my previous, newer timing cover and the standard bolts it would seem that the length of the standard bolts are such a length as to ensure that around 600 thousands of an inch protrude into the block. So knowing this fact I undertook to take some measurements of the timing cover, etc.
Bolt size is imperial 5/16 UNC. Threaded section of 5/16 bolts will be 2 * 5 / 16 + 1/4" = 7/8" or 875 thousands of an inch. So sufficient for 600 thou's then. Each one of my bolts will have a load bearing washer underneath, this comes out at 58 thou's. The timing cover gasket is 20 thou's uncompressed. The water gasket is 40 thou's uncompressed. The gaskets are paper so cannot imagine that they compress that much with the 18ft/lbs of torque.
The water pump is around 600 thousands of an inch in depth.
The timing cover depth is more complex, it would seem this has three different depths depending on the region.
The first region, the lower region around the crank and up the sides is a depth of 2505 thou's. Five bolts are in this region. So bolt length required would be this length plus a washer and the gasket depth and adding in the required depth into the block of 600:
2505 + 58 + 20 + 600 = 3182 or 3 1/8" to nearest 1/8" (3125)
The second region, the upper region where the water pump mounts is 3472 thou's. Three bolts are in this region which go through the timing cover. There are other bolts that go through the water pump only but these are not part of this exercise. So bolt length would be this length plus the water pump depth, both water pump and timing cover gasket plus the depth into the block and not forgetting that washer:
3472 + 600 + 20 + 40 + 600 + 58 = 4790 or 4 3/4" to nearest 1/8" (4750)
The third region, is upper but to the left and does not go through the water pump is 3208 thou's. Only one bolt here. So bolt length required would be this length plus the washer, timing gasket and depth required:
3208 + 58 + 20 + 600 = 3886 or 3 7/8" to nearest 1/8" (3800)
Now to double check I know the later timing cover bolts are 5 off 2 /1/8" for lower region and 4 off 3" for the upper region. Later timing cover is not as a complex shape and it would appear that only two bolt lengths are required. The lower region is 1" shallow than the earlier cover and the upper region is 1 3/4" shallower. So lower region becomes 2 1/8" + 1" = 3 1/8" and upper region becomes 3" + 1 3/4" = 4 3/4". It all seems to add up.
20 February 2007
Session 142 - Oil pump cover plate & Dizzy blanking plug
The oil pump cover plate screws in the timing cover require to be torqued upto 3 ft/bs! I have nothing that goes that low. An old friend of the family has his own engineering company and he does. So I nipped down their today and got the screws nipped up along with some loctite 222 which is a thread sealer/locker for small screws. With such a low torque with a pump running behind you must use a thread locker.
The rebuild manual says to lubricate the oil pump gears with engine oil. No need to use vaseline which is only used on the older style pumps to prime. These pumps are self priming. I decided to use cam lube because it is much thicker and sticks to metal components for longer. Useful as it while be a while before I actually start this engine I think.
Here's a photo showing the oil pump cover plate on the reverse side of the timing cover.
I was wondering how the hell these oil pumps work they look very simple yet are one of the best performing ones. Not even knowing what this pump is called I asked the question on the V8 forum that I am a member of. The pump is called a Crescent pump, ah now I can google it. I found the following that describes it quite well. Also a nice animation here.
Over the last few days I have been trying to find a supplier for the bolts I require for to fasten my timing cover to the block. This is proving difficult as the sizes are non-standard. I may concede and use the usual OEM hex bolts. I could get 4" and 5" cap head bolts and cut down but cutting bolts down can be a dangerous practise as it effects the structural integrity of the bolt. A bolt falure here could result in severe engine damage and I'd rather not risk damage due to an obession over appearance of bolt heads!
I got an email from my chap that has been fabricating or turning the dizzy blanking plug design that I came up with. The part is ready, boy that's quick. I rushed off to go and collect it. I didn't taking the timing cover with me, I rushed out so quickly that I almost chpped of the returning cat's head in the door frame!
I couldn't get home quick enough. Will it fit? will it be too large or worse too small! erm...
Photo of the dizzy plug in the foreground. Background showing the top of the timing cover with the hole where the distributor drive normally resides. Yes, I did try it fitted before I got my camera out.
Photo showing its new home.
Perfect fit in everyway. top is level with the material around it, the bottom of the plug is level with the bottom of the hole inside the cover and absolutely no lateral movement in the hole. Do I need that old o-ring, no I better use it.
In case you were wondering what a distributor looks like, well they are old technology now with the advent of ECUs.
The red arrows show approximately the measurements I took, I did tweak them a little, especially the lower part at the gear end as this protrudes into the timing cover space and I didn't want the plug to do the same as no need. I also did away the upper and lower ridge and made the plug the same maximum width all the way down.
24 February 2007
Session 143 - Lifter clearance
Spent about 60 minutes today checking and adjusting my tappet clearance. I have adjustable push rods so adjustment is quite easy just undo the locknut and turn to adjust. I found that my lash was around 0.080" and this should be 0.060" for Rhoads lifters. Rhoads lifters are of the pump up hydraulic type. I was amused that they were all out by the same amount, this cause me to think that my welding rod, my measuring device was of the wrong size so I double checked it with my vernier calipers but I found it to be 0.059" which is good enough. Thought a little harder and then suddenly remembered that I have had the heads off since I first adjusted. I did use new head gaskets of course but this just goes to show if you have the heads off check the lifter clearance.
25February 2007
Just trial fitted my sump today to check for a) fitment, b) crankshaft throw clearance between the horinzonal baffle and c) dip stick. All clearances seems okay especially bearing in mind that the gasket will space the sump from the block a little more. The main crankshaft throw at the front exhibits about 1/8" clearance to the baffle.
Took some external dimension measurements of the sump; 100mm deep X 195mm wide X 490mm length. The angled front equates to aproximately 30mm X 40mm X 50mm (hypot) triangles. This gives a theoritical maximum fill of 9.55 litres minus the triangular front which is about 0.120litre, giving a total of 9.43litres or 2.14imperial gallons/ 17.11 pints. Of course this does not take into account the volume of the baffles and where the max mark on the dip stick places the oil level line in the sump nor the volume of the oil filter (aprox 0.5 pints) .Later I shall attempt to calculate the capacity to the line on the dip stick. Once I have done this and am happy with the theortical oil capacity to the max line then I shall intall the sump proper along with the oil filter and take more accurate measurements. Note however that the oil filter will be of the remote variety but for this test I shall attach to the normal place.
Fitted the oil dipstick tube and dipstick and oil pickup to see where about in the sump they will be placed. Of course this is approximate but as accurate as I could have achieved. The oil pickup will be 4mm off the bottom of the sump which sounds pretty ideal. The dipstick max mark is about 46mm down from the block meaning an oil level of 54mm which eqautes to 54/100 * 9.43 = 5.09litres. Min mark is 34/100*9.43 = 3.21litres. Of course there will be oil in the filter which is about 300mm so maximum capacity indicated would be 5.39litre. I believe the standard oil capacity of an SD1 sump is 6.6litre so I am not completely happy where the maximum mark is. I also noticed that the oil at maximum would be at least 10mm below the horizonal baffle. I am going to get hold of an SD1 dipstick and tube as I believe it is longer by some 10mm than the range rover version, is this coincidence, maybe not! This would add an extra 10/100 * 9.43 = 0.94litres taking it upto 6litres. Further checks are required...
Here's a picture of what the sump looks like on the engine, nice.
28 February 2007
Session 145 - Dizzy blanking plug design 1.2!
Had some positive comments made from the V8 forum community regarding the dizzy plug I designed. Decided to take on board some comments and got back to the draught board and produced a revised design. Sent off to be fabricated.
Here's the latest incarnation
Go to March 2007