2 January 2006
Happy new year
Day/Session 33 - Differential
Spent 1.5 hours cleaning the diff today using my dremel, steel wheel and WD40. Has come up a treat, well it only had surface rust on the output and input drives, practically gleaming now. As previously stated the diff looks new from the outside but you never know so I removed the cover to look at the state of the internals. A pleasant surprise, cogs are complete new, no wear at all, can still see the original milling lines. Can also see some engineers blue, well it is white actually. I think I have turned these cogs more than anything else. See picture below. The two plates on the left-hand side is a kind of clutch, the friction between the plates is the principle method of the LSD works (Limited Slip Differential).
The big cog is called the crown wheel, this is driven by the pinion gear which is driven by the input drive connected to the prop shaft which in turn is driven by the output shaft of the gearbox, the relationship of the number of teeth on the crown wheel and pinion wheel is what determines the final drive ratio. If you are interested and want to know more detail, then visit this excellent site.
Picture of diff internals, click photo for enlarged view:
Close up of diff gears:
8 January 2006
First Area Meeting
Attended my first area meeting today; Thames Valley. In fact discovered that the Beds, Herts and Bucks area meeting is closer! I am afraid I didn't add much to the meeting in terms of experience or expertise but I received some good advice.
I met Neil Hatton who is the Thames Valley AO. Dave Who owns a 2.8 V6 (cologne) narrow bodied westy. Phil, didn't speak much to Phil, sorry! Dale who recently had an accident with his and a van and had a lucky escape by the sounds of it. Mark who recently bought a 4.6 V8 westfield, which I have to say looks good, twin side pipes and all, sounds very nice. James, who I spoke to most of the time, he runs a 4.2 V8 westfield which was an ex-sprint car so has loads of performance tweaks, makes about 297BHP. James is in the middle of installing nitrous! Wow, serious, his car is light as well, around 600Kgs wet! Met Kevin also, not sure what he drives, but he brought it along looks nice, and he had a hood on, which was definitely an advantage today for it was raining. Altogether a friendly bunch.
Master Brake Cylinder
I thought I'd better do some work today, so spent just 20 minutes removing the master brake cylinder to send off to Westfield tomorrow. I am wanting to upgrade to the AP version which has a bigger piston in which to drive four pot calipers. Click here to look at the upgrade version.
11 January 2006
Session 34 - More diff work
Spent about 1 hour in the garage tonight just cleaning of the old silicon gasket from the diff and cover plate in preparation to re-seal the diff cover. There was not a lot of silicon, quite literally just a fraction of a millimetre but it has to be completely clean and flat otherwise an oil leak my result and we don't want that.
14 January 2006
Session 35 - Yet more diff work!
Well today was quite busy actually. I ordered loads of bits from Westfield on Thursday and took delivery of them today. Christmas again! I received an updated AP master brake cylinder. Constant Velocity joints, shrouds, stub shafts, hub-nuts, basically all I need to fit my diff and connect to the hubs, yes the hubs, what wheels bolt to. I also had ordered the wiring loom include the engine loom, I received this today also. I had also ordered some bits from Ford for the diff; silicone sealant specific for the job, oil fill plug, new breather tube and a replacement TORX bolt as one looks a bit dodgy (the TORX slept out as the bolt was stuck solid).
AP Master brake cylinder with some more M10 copper washers:
Small loom is the engine loom for Rover V8 Efi Serpentine. Larger loom is the main car loom, comes complete with fixings, fuses boxes and fuses, everything you need basically:
Stub shafts with Hub-nuts, these go through the hubs and locate with splines. The other end connects to a CV joint then to the bar shaft and then another CV joint and finally to the diff output flanges:
These are the said CV joints. There are four of them per car. All fitted to the rear of the car. I have emptied the contents of one box so you can see what the kit includes, Shroud, CV joint itself, gasket, 6 Bolts, Cork gasket and the grease (lovely!)
Here's the kit I got from Ford at last, took a while as they wanted to know what car the diff was fitted to and were confused when I said to a Westfield! Anyway this includes the silicon sealant, not cheap for the original specification. A oil filler plug which is magnetic to capture any metal particles. A replace TORX bolt and the oil breather tube. All this is OEM, not worth getting inferior parts for this, could cost a lot more in the long run. The cost was not too bad really, around £20 for these bits:
I also met Richard White today and bought the Compotive alloys with Slicks from him. Spent a lot of money in the last few days! I haven't taken any photos of the alloys yet as today was raining and the alloys are a little dusty but otherwise absolutely perfect like new condition. The slicks have been used about four times. I think actually that is all the use the wheels have had. The alloys are 15 x 8 inch and Richard has decided to go for 13 inch rims so these were surplus to his requirements.
Spent 1 hour in the garage today actually doing work, I degreased the mating surfaces of the the diff cover and diff and applied the silicon and then torqued the cover down. I used most of the silicon and I hope it doesn't leak! Here's the picture of the silicon applied to the surfaces:
Applied to the matting surface of the diff, I do this after doing the cover as a belts 'n' braces approach as I had enough left:
Picture of silicone on diff cover:
Tomorrow I am going up to the Autosport show at the NEC so will probably not do a lot more this weekend, shame as I have lots to do now. I would really like to get the diff in and build up the drive shafts.
15 January 2006
Session 36 - Fitted new upgraded AP master brake cylinder
Okay, okay I couldn't resist I have missed first part of casualty on BBC1 to fit my up rated master brake cylinder. The shaft was too long when mounting. I figured out from the gap between the mounting and the pedal box that I needed to remove 10mm from the shaft. I cautiously removed this filed smooth at the end and attached to the pedal box, setting a 10mm end float, perfect fit.
16 January 2006
Session 37 - Fitting differential to chassis
The diff isn't that heavy is it? That is until you hold in the chassis for half an hour whilst trying to align bolt holes and insert bolts and studs! Took about 10 minutes to realize that it did not line up with all four mounting holes as the diff casing on the bottom left hand side fowls one of the chassis rails! This is apparently an issue with installing a 7.5" diff, the 7" fits okay. I got my air grinder out and took about removing some of the alloy casing, the grinder wheel broke of from the shaft. I am having to remove the casing by hand with a file! Had a few attempts to remove enough material, finally got the diff in and once I inserted all the bolts and tightened and the diff settled into the mounts it became obvious that the diff case it too close to the chassis rail. Yes, I am going to have to remove the diff again. I think tomorrow I am going to buy a new grinder. Well I will chalk today's 2 hours in the garage to experience or trial fitting to perfection!
17 January 2006
Session 38 - Fitting differential to chassis, yeesss!
Okay today I took the diff out of the chassis again! I am getting good at removing and re-installing the diff I can do it in about 15 minutes on my own with no assistance! (Yes I do work out!). I found my angle grinder which had a stone cutting disk, I went down to halfords and bought some grinder wheels for grinding metal. Now that is better, took about five minutes to grind of the required alloy from the case.
On fitting the diff I came across another small snag. The washers between the bushes at the top were very tight I had to hammer the final washer in! Tight is good as I am going to be pushing a lot of torque through this diff from my V8. Sadly this was not the situation with the bottom chassis mounts which uses a stud as well. I remedied this by inserting an extra washer between the bottom right hand chassis mount bush and the diff case, just as hard to insert at the upper washer, excellent. Really happy with the fitment.
I still need to install the rear diff stabilization bracket, but I need to get a metalastic bush installed into the bracket first. I need to arrange this to be done by my friendly Porsche engineering specialists; Autofarm. I know! but they have the required press which can exert 10 tonne of pressure and they also have a tool to protect the bush whilst inserting (they fabricated this the first time I got them to insert the rear outboard wishbone bushes).
I have re-connected the brake pipes at the rear, as these had to be removed to give enough clearance to install the diff. All in all I spent 90 minutes in the garage this evening.
This is a picture of the diff from underneath the car (oh my god, I have just called it a car!). If you look carefully on the right hand-side you will see that the diff clears the cross-member, about 5mm. Click the image to enlarge for a better view:
Here's a photo of the diff from the more traditional angle, the rear:
Here's a photo of the alloys and slicks I bought on Sunday. Not cleaned yet though:
18 January 2006
Session 39 - Drive shaft assembly
Spent 90 minutes in the garage tonight, Started off reading and familiarizing myself with the assembly of the drive shafts according to the westfield manual in conjunction with the instructions of the CV Joints. Each drive shaft has two Constant Velocity Joints or CVJ's which connect to the differential output flange and hub shaft flange. The CV joints are fixed therefore rotation of the differential output to the hubs is constant but the joints allow the drive shaft to move upwards and down pretty much like a universal joint or another example like the wobbly joint that you have in your socket set. Tonight I assembled the left hand side drive shaft and connected to the differential output and to the hub shaft and to the hub.
Starting from the differential you have the output flange which connects to one CVJ, then CV joint is bolt to the diff with 6 allen bolts. The CVJ is held on the bar shaft by a circlip. The CVJ is packed with graphite grease. Over the CVJ joint and over the bar shaft is a gaiter which keeps the CVJ dry and to hold the grease in. Getting this CVJ over the bar shaft was difficult as the bar shaft has a ridge where the splines that go into the CVJ end and trying to get a tight rubber gaiter over this is kind of like putting a bicycle tyre back onto a wheel with your bare hands, no actually is harder! There are two ridges on the bar shaft where the end of the gaiter locates and then a clip goes over the rubber and is tightened.
The other end of the bar shaft is connect to the stub shaft flange and again connect via 6 allen bolts through a CVJ which again is held on the bar shaft splines with a circlip. This CVJ has a gaiter and again packed with graphite grease. The stub shaft has a splined end which goes through the uprights and through the outer hub and then held on with a hub nut and washer.
I think assembly of the right hand drive shaft will take me less than 30 minutes now I know how it all works and how to assemble. I shall defer taking photographs until I have the right hand side assembled tomorrow.
19 January 2006
Session 40 - Hey 40th Birthday, now life begins.... - Drive shaft assembly continued
As promised assembly of the right hand drive shaft with photos and details.
Here we have the bar shaft, the black thing with splines on the ends. From Left to right you see a gaiter, a white tube containing graphite grease, a Constant Velocity Joint or CVJ for short, a packet of 6 allen bolts, the larger clip is used to keep the small end of the gaiter on the two ridges on the bar shaft. The circlip used to lock the CVJ onto the splines. Right now the fun begins.
As mentioned yesterday, getting the gaiter over the ridge between the splines and the bar shaft is very difficult. Wrapping tape next to the ridge reduces the ridge and makes the job a whole lot easier, see photo below. The WD40 is used to lubricate the rubber so that is slips over easily.
Here you see the gaiters are installed and the white tape removed. I spay the splines with some cooper grease, just in case the CVJ's have to be removed some time in the future.
Take each CVJ and you will see a ridge that runs around the circumference put this at the top. Now take one tube of the grease and pack into all the gaps, as best as you can. This surface will locate onto the gaiter.
Next take the CVJ and locate on one end of the bar shaft aligning the spline. Push down until it locates fully, you see the small ridge on the spline where the circlip will go. It seems to be a 50-50 affair whether it slips on easily or requires some persuasion. As the CVJ is like a universal joint trying to directly bang on with a mallet it not effective. What you need to do is use a 24mm socket, place over the centre of the CVJ now hit the socket with the mallet and voila it is done. Next using circlip pliers locate circlip over the bar shaft end. Here's the photo:
Now take the other CVJ and using another tube of grease pack like the first one and repeat the installation procedure on the bar shaft.
Here's the bar shaft with both CVJ's installed. Next you need to pack grease onto the outboard side of the joint. You will need to hold the bar shaft vertical to do this. The first one is easier as you can do this on the bench.
Here's the result, using the other tube, pack grease on other CVJ.
Connecting the now drive shafts to the differential and hub flange requires that the upper wishbone is disconnected so that the upright can be swung downward to facilitate entry of the shaft. Screw in two allen bolts on each end and now you can rotate the shaft by turning the outer hub to ease installation of the bolts on each end. If you look at the gaiter you see the compressed side makes access to the bolts more difficult. There you have it, job done. Assembly and fitting of the shaft took no longer than 60 minutes.
20 January 2006
Session 41 - Differential stabilization bracket
Got my stabilization bracket back today from Autofarm; the Porsche specialist. It now has a metalastic bush installed. Wasn't going to spend any time in the garage tonight but I had to install this. If you look at the last picture from last night you will see the two bolt holes at the rear of the differential, in the cover plate. You will also see the chassis bracket on the rear cross member. Just three bolts, which I have torqued up.
22 January 2006
Session 42 - Wiring loom
Spent 4 hours in the living room tonight looking at the schematic diagram supplied with the loom and marked all the fuse positions and connections for switches and sensors etc on the loom. Phew, you wouldn't believe how many wires! At least a job I could do in the warm.
23 January 2006
Session 43 - Wiring looms!
I shouldn't be in the garage as I had that flu virus this weekend and still felt symptoms today, in fact had to call in sick. I started to feel better this evening so thought I'd do a few hours in the garage.
Spent 2 hours in the garage tonight installing the loom into the car and it is not finished yet. Used my rivnut tool today for the first time, brilliant, I think I will use this a lot! Drilled and installed rivnuts for Fuse boxes. Installed gromet and wire loom through the scuttle panel. Installed gromet and wire loom through the transmission tunnel panel, this is the part of the loom which provides all the connectors for switches and gauges. A little tip when installing this part of the loom, push the relay housings through first, even though this means bending the loom as when the loom grows in girth as you work through you will be unable to push the relay housings through. The hole is only 45mm and the relay housings are very close. This is where marking all the connections on the loom really pays off.
This photo shows most of the part of the wire loom that will go behind the dash:
Here's a photo of the fuse boxes mounted using rivnuts and the rubber gromet in the centre:
28 January 2006
Session 44 - Diff oil!
The most difficult part of this was getting hold of the right oil. I wanted to make sure not only was I getting the correct grade and service life but also the best, as this is rarely changed. In the end I went for Castrol EPX 80W90 API: GL5. Filled until started to come out of the fill hole, this seemed to be around 1.4Litres, according to the manual for Ford Granada diff, should be 1.3Litres, so this is good. Inserted oil plug and torqued up to 40Nm.
30 January 2006
Session 45 - Track rod ends, rear wheel studs
Only spent about 20 minutes in the garage installing the track rod ends that eventually turned up from Westfield along with handbrake level, switch and wheel nuts. My rear discs and ball joint set are not in stock so having to wait for them. I am a little concerned that my rear wheel studs will not be long enough. I attached the wheel and done some calculations. Stud length is 51mm by the time it emerges through the hub flange they are 37mm, I believe when the discs are installed they will consume a further 8mm so there will be 29mm of stud length left. This sounds a lot but the thickness of the alloy wheel at this point is 10mm, this means I have 19mm left. 19mm sounds a lot but the wheel nuts themselves have 24mm of thread, so when everything is installed there will be 5 mm of internal thread showing at the end of the wheel nut, which looks dodgy, in theory this is okay as the nuts will have gripped onto 19mm of thread on the stud, the minimum being 18mm (12 * 1.5). I double check once I have received the discs, and if my measurements are correct then I am going to get the longer studs, which are 63mm, i.e. giving an extra 12mm of thread, I will have to cut 7mm of the stud for a perfect fit.
Go to February 2006